No fresh snow but the ice climbing…sweeet
It has not dumped here for here for 4 days so we decided to do something else. After skiing in 50cm of crazy powder you get kind of spoiled. So we headed out to ice climb. Our friends Arnar and Berglind came back to Golden to join us for some climbing.
We headed strait for the beer as usual…Guinness Gully WI4 245m, and Carlsberg Column WI5 60m. Really good day and nothing more to say about that.
The day after we woke up early to climb in Sunshine Walley, Bourgeau Left WI5, 185m. The weather was really good, sunshine and clear sky. We could see the route from the road, a beautiful 4 pitches of steep ice in the sunshine. The approach looked easy so we walked into the forest and followed the path. Before we knew we had lost the path and found our selves in snow up to waist with 10cm hard shell on top of it. It took us about two hours to find the route…I love those trees that allways block your view! Finally, after some scramble up some easy rocks we could start the route.
Ice was soft and it was really warm in the sun. The first 3 pitches were great. Feel good climbing with good sheltered belays. Then there was the last pitch… Really steep slush with icicles between. The lower part was hard to protect and you could push the ice screws into the ice, exactly what makes you feel good and comfortable. The ice got a little bit better at the top but still it was really sun baked. Everyone got up in one way or another and we came down early, although we had some troubles in the beginning.The right approach path would have taken about 30 min walk up.
We drove to Banff and had the best burgers ever at Eddies. Huge burgers with everything on it you can imagine. With full stomachs, relaxed after chilling in Banff hot springs we parked the car at a parking house, duck taped the rear windows and went to sleep. The night was cold, about -19°C and when we woke up we had to scrape the windows on the inside,and the interior of the car was all icy.
Just like any other ice climbing day we had trouble finding the route. The plan was to climb Kitty Hawk WI5 but we could by no chance find it. After endless driving, watching the fuel meter getting lower every minute we ended at the Weeping Wall. Started climbing around 14:30 and the sun was going down fast. On the second pitch Danni got bombarded in the head by friendly fire. ” Hey Robbi…this is not a good thing, I´m all feeling dizzy.” Then he saw some stars and more. When they came up to the belay I asked them if we should finish the rout ? Danni´s nose was all bleeding because he got hit again, but in the face this time by his own fire when chopping the tool in the ice. We decided to rappel down and he was not feeling good.
When we came back to the car just to realize that we´d forgot the lights on and it was out of power. Great. It was getting really dark and not many people driving around. We waited for about an hour in -20°C, and after stopping 6 cars we finally got jump start and had safe drive home.